From now until the end of the summer, Capital News reporters are going behind the scenes in the industries that make the local economy tick and we're bringing the stories to readers. The first of this series looks at the food and drink industry.
If you pull your stereotypes from popular TV programs, successful chefs should be bombastic tyrants, hurling insults and cutlery at anything deemed less than perfect.
Wrapped in crisp double-breasted chef coats with jaunty white hats atop their heads, they害羞草研究所檙e alluring and repugnant all at once.
A walking contradiction reflecting the base pleasures inherent in gloriously culinary concoctions and the ugly work needed to deliver them, night after night.
Of course, reality is rarely found on TV.
What those screen-dwelling caricatures have done in the real world, however, is build the public害羞草研究所檚 appetite for fine dining, making way for real chefs in cities both big and small to build on their trade and grow their profile.
Locally that rising culinary standard has been further shaped by the success of the valley害羞草研究所檚 wine industry.Those who really have succeeded know how to capitalize on both.
That brings us to Mark Filatow, the chef at Waterfront Wines who害羞草研究所檚 also a sommelier.
He makes the news often, so I was familiar with his name before I took Okanagan College害羞草研究所檚 three-day food and wine pairing intensive class last week.
It was still, perhaps because of those stereotypes, a bit daunting to walk into the classroom of which he was at the helm, but luckily the day started with wine.
Also, Filatow害羞草研究所檚 remarkably pleasant demeanour was a stark contrast to all preconceptions usually attached to someone whose background reads like the society pages for chefs.
He began a culinary apprenticeship in 1996 working with chef Rod Butters at Tofino害羞草研究所檚 Wickaninnish Inn. After two years, he headed back to Vancouver and worked for chef John Bishop at Bishops Restaurant, followed by Diva at the Met Restaurant under Canadian Iron Chef Michael Noble. In 2001 he joined Butters, and with Audrey Surrao, became part of the opening team of Kelowna害羞草研究所檚 Fresco, which is now RauDZ.
He started running his own restaurant in November 2004 and opened Kelowna害羞草研究所檚 Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar.
It害羞草研究所檚 won numerous awards including being dubbed one of Canada害羞草研究所檚 Best New Restaurants by EnRoute Magazine and tallied five consecutive years of Wine Spectator害羞草研究所檚 害羞草研究所淎ward of Excellence.害羞草研究所� Most recently Vancouver Magazine named Waterfront Wines the best in the Okanagan.
Filatow offered up a truncated version of that history, which focused a lot on food-loving European parents and skipped the name-dropping I just included, when the class got underway.
He then asked those in attendance what brought them to the class, what their favourite/least favourite food and wine combinations were and offered up encouraging nods and comments to every nugget of information offered.
It was abundantly clear from that moment onward that I had no business being among the collection of industry types and connoisseurs.
Searching my mind for qualifications I remembered when a soju-soaked fortune teller in Seoul said that I害羞草研究所檇 never find my life purpose until I ran a restaurant.
Or maybe I could tell them I was there because I害羞草研究所檓 Greek-ish and that害羞草研究所檚 just what Greeks, even the 害羞草研究所渋sh害羞草研究所� ones, seem to do?
My grandfather was a pastry chef who classically trained in Paris and other stops across Europe. When he grew up and had a family, he immigrated with them from Cyprus to Montreal where he and my grandmother put their combined skills to work and opened a restaurant.
It went on for awhile, and then it was gone.
The recipes that they and their children continued to make lived on and made me a great eater害羞草研究所攁 skill I leave off my resum茅, though it sticks to my hips.
The most legitimate reason for me to be there, however, is the belief that all Okanaganites, especially those of us who have been here awhile and watched the food and beverage industry explode without much of an idea of how to get our bearings, should get a crash course in what害羞草研究所檚 become the defining characteristic of the valley.
A wine tour just doesn害羞草研究所檛 cut it and I don害羞草研究所檛 have the budget or the stomach for trying everything.
So, I was there to eat, learn, drink, for us害羞草研究所攖he common Okanaganite.
Not the stuff of a Julia Roberts movie, but somebody needs to make the sacrifice.
And what a sacrifice it was.
The class tasted a selection of quality local wines paired with foods Filatow prepared in front of us.
My classmates tossed around terms like 害羞草研究所渂arnyard-y害羞草研究所� and 害羞草研究所渙range peel.害羞草研究所滻 mostly said 害羞草研究所渞ed,害羞草研究所� 害羞草研究所渨hite,害羞草研究所� 害羞草研究所済ood害羞草研究所� and 害羞草研究所渂ad.害羞草研究所�
We talked about how a good wine stays on the palate longer, and applied free market economic theory to drink appreciation.
害羞草研究所淚f you pay for it, you taste it differently,害羞草研究所� said Filatow, who, for the record, keeps wine notes in his phone, under headings like, appearance, nose, palate.
And, as he goes, he puts in notes about what foods the wine may pair well with.
There害羞草研究所檚 an app for that, but he害羞草研究所檚 not a fan. Nor does he particularly like the fact that Gew眉rztraminers always come with the suggestion that they pair well with 害羞草研究所渟picy Asian food.害羞草研究所�
It害羞草研究所檚 a cop-out in labelling and a disservice to consumers that apparently really bothers him.
Filatow explained that a wine that has a lot of tannins害羞草研究所攖hat stuff that makes your gums feel dry害羞草研究所攏eeds a big protein like steak.
He also taught us that some foods can make a wine sing, while others are pure mouth-torture.
And there were some dishier nuggets. Filatow once mentioned, without naming names, there are some wines in the valley he would never feature in his restaurant, regardless of the seal on the label.
Another in-the-know classmate talked about how bulk wine sales are going to become more common because some wineries have reached land-lease agreements that left them a massive amount of grapes they made into wine.
The trouble with abundance, however, is finding the supply a home, thus the big-quantity sales of the future.
Best of all, however, was when we were taken out of the classroom and put into situations where we got to see Filatow interact with the men and women who produce the products he uses in his restaurant. They all had their own pairings prepared.
Stops on this tour included Bad Tattoo brewing, where locally made beer rivals wine in its story and adherence to production.
Brodo restaurant in Penticton was also featured.
And the one that sparked my appetite for more was the Upper Bench Winery and creamery.
Its cheeses and wines were delicious, but you know that feeling you get when you meet people you want to keep talking to? That害羞草研究所檚 what this place oozes.
The owners, wine-making husband and cheese-making wife Gavin and Shana Miller, decided to get into business when Gavin wanted to make a wine he could afford to drink害羞草研究所� or so the charming anecdote began.
He害羞草研究所檚 known for big red wines, and built up his reputation through wine making at Poplar Grove and Painted Rock. Shana became a cheese-maker at Poplar Grove.
Somewhere along the way they decided to branch out.
At the tail end of a remarkably romantic sounding post-bankruptcy sale, they and a partner became owners of a gorgeous little spot on the Naramata Bench, where I害羞草研究所檓 almost sure people fall in love with them daily.
They talk about their cheeses and wines like they were beautiful living creations.
All Shana害羞草研究所檚 cheeses are boys, 害羞草研究所渨hich is why they害羞草研究所檙e so difficult.害羞草研究所�
It makes sense because all the things worth loving are difficult, and it害羞草研究所檚 clear love of her craft is a not so secret ingredient.
Gavin said he害羞草研究所檚 woken up in the wee hours on more than one occasion to see her illuminated by the warm glow of YouTube害羞草研究所檚 cheese making clips.
Her cheeses are paired with Gavin害羞草研究所檚 wines, which he said he害羞草研究所檚 lucky enough to make on a smaller scale, allowing a focus on quality.
That, he explained while bringing us into the fields behind the shop, is a reflection of what害羞草研究所檚 in the vineyard.
Before the Millers took over, the space had been bankrupted twice, and the land was used at maximum capacity. Abused, they intimated.
To make things right, Gavin reduced the volume of grapes they produced and they stopped using chemicals, like Round-up, which from the sounds of things, is a vineyard favourite.
They even showed how to spot the difference between a vineyard that uses chemicals and one that doesn害羞草研究所檛. Check between the vines. If there is unruly grass and underbrush, then you害羞草研究所檙e in a chemical free zone. If it害羞草研究所檚 parched and clear, something less than organic is going on.
And that is kind of the foundation for his wine making. He told us that he was once told by a successful wine maker that the job is not about making wine, per se. It害羞草研究所檚 about taking care of the grapes from start to finish, and if it害羞草研究所檚 done with care you can be sure of a quality product.
The Millers have an attitude that isn害羞草研究所檛 totally unique in the valley. It was reflected in Filatow害羞草研究所檚 lectures, as well as the comments from others woven into the course.
Good quality food and drink that害羞草研究所檚 ultimately an homage to the geography it springs from amounts to a story in every bite, sip, or slurp. And that害羞草研究所檚 something we uninitiated Okanaganites know a thing or two about.
While not all of us may have the palate or paycheques needed to really immerse ourselves in the Okanagan害羞草研究所檚 flashiest industry, the geography is a good chunk of why we are all here.
So, next time you have a sip or a bite, take a minute to think about its story. I know I will. And it will taste all the more 害羞草研究所渂arnyard-y害羞草研究所� for it.
Unless that害羞草研究所檚 a bad thing害羞草研究所害羞草研究所檓 still not sure. But I害羞草研究所檓 certainly not going to be afraid to ask in the future, especially if I come across the likes of those I met in the program.
