- Words by Susan Lundy Photography by Lia Crowe

害羞草研究所淭he concept of Bruno is all about sharing and bringing people together through the gift and creativity of food,害羞草研究所� says Will Lew, executive chef of Richmond害羞草研究所檚 newest high-end destination restaurant, Bruno, located in the brand new Versante Hotel.

害羞草研究所淚t is dictated by what is found locally around us: the seasons, the passions and talents of so many local purveyors in Richmond and in BC害羞草研究所攖he suppliers, artisans, farmers and fisher folk. It is also created around food meant to be shared, be that in a casual way or in the most elaborate and theatrical dining experience.害羞草研究所�

With this in mind, my husband and I sat down to an unforgettable tasting journey at Bruno. We feasted with our taste buds and our eyes and we moved through the five-course Bruno Board Experience害羞草研究所攅ach course paired with exquisite wines.

So many aspects of this meal stood out, from the artistry of the plated food to the impeccable service and, of course, the heavenly flavours. There was drama too, as Will undertook a table-side torching of the first course害羞草研究所攔aw and torched oysters害羞草研究所攖he result of which was a melt-in-your-mouth rendering of one of my most-cherished foods. The oysters arrived plated on a seashore-mimicking bed of sea rocks, shells and seaweed. A fall-season salad害羞草研究所攁ppropriately coloured in green, yellow and red害羞草研究所攆ollowed, dairy-free for me, with burrata for my husband. Pork belly tomahawk was up next, alongside my favourite course of the evening, the saffron shellfish. A massive board of duck breast, Brussels sprouts and potatoes followed.

The selection of wines was impeccable, from the crisp Vigneti Del Sole Pinot Grigio to the smooth Roche Pinot Noir and silky Nicolis Seccal Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore.

For the dining experience we were seated comfortably ensconced in a private glass area with available space for 10. The main-floor restaurant, with its sleek, contemporary blue-beige decor, seats 130 people, including an 18-seat central community table.

The entire experience was unforgettable and, in looking at others in the restaurant害羞草研究所攑eople enjoying the camaraderie forged by sharing food and lingering at tables well into the evening害羞草研究所攊t seems Bruno has hit a chord with locals as well as guests staying at Versante Hotel, itself a vibrant and colourful destination.

Will says the desire to 害羞草研究所渃ommunicate through creativity and artistry害羞草研究所� has always been at the forefront of his career choices, and growing up in East Vancouver surrounded by many cultures害羞草研究所攂oth his parents immigrated to Canada from Hong Kong in their youth害羞草研究所攈e believes his specialty as a chef is 害羞草研究所渄iversity.害羞草研究所�

This means 害羞草研究所渢aking any concept and transforming it into coherent, engaging and immersive experiences for our guests and our colleagues.害羞草研究所�

He adds: 害羞草研究所淐ooking this way害羞草研究所攖ranslating a story, a moment, a place, a time, a message, a purpose and so on害羞草研究所攊s what allows me and the team to be most creative in telling a story that has significance.害羞草研究所�

Before becoming a chef, Will obtained a Bachelor of Science in animal biology from UBC, and also spent many years as an orchestral violinist.

But he says, 害羞草研究所淢y earliest memory was cooking with my grandfather. I learned art, cooking and creativity from him and that fostered a lifetime passion towards all forms of art.害羞草研究所�

Although several careers interested him, he recalls: 害羞草研究所淥ne summer I decided to find a job in the food and beverage industry, while still pursuing music. I went into almost every restaurant in Yaletown asking for a job. All the restaurants said that without experience it wasn害羞草研究所檛 possible害羞草研究所�害羞草研究所�

But eventually he met a chef willing to give him an on-the-spot job in the dish pit of a new and busy establishment.

害羞草研究所淎s I washed dishes that evening, I saw how food and the industry brought so much creativity, leadership, intensity and satisfaction to not only the guests but to the chefs and cooks as well. I finished that shift at 4:00 in the morning. My culinary life flashed before my eyes and I knew that I wanted to be a chef!害羞草研究所�

Will worked his way up from washing dishes to running almost all Glowbal Restaurant Group establishments, and was eventually recruited to run restaurants for Fairmont Pacific Rim.

Here, he says, his 害羞草研究所渦ltimate passion and life mission for ocean sustainability came to life as we opened the first 100 per cent Ocean Wise sushi restaurant, RawBar, in the lobby of the Fairmont Pacific Rim.害羞草研究所�

Will became chef de cuisine of Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, later headed up Black & Blue and eventually opened his own fine-dining restaurant, Quanjude.

害羞草研究所淭hen the pandemic drastically shifted the landscape of the industry,害羞草研究所� he says. 害羞草研究所淚t led to my greatest dream, which was to work for a non-profit organization focused on sustainability.害羞草研究所�

Will became the executive chef of Ocean Wise Conservation, which encompassed Ocean Wise Seafood as well as the Vancouver Aquarium. When the aquarium shut down, he worked for Nootka Marine Adventures, creating culinary programs focused on seafood sustainability. This season, he was asked to take on the role of executive chef of Club Versante, which will open several restaurants, the first of which is Bruno.

As one of seven official Ocean Wise Seafood Council members in Canada, Will stresses that eating lower down the seafood food chain is crucial to sustainability. Eating restorative species like kelp and bivalves is 害羞草研究所渁n essential part of keeping the abundance of wild seafood viable for the future.害羞草研究所�

The joy Will finds in creative collaboration with his colleagues shines through in everything at Bruno, and a swing through the breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner and dessert menus sets the mouth watering. We also sampled a number of items at breakfast the following morning and although I rarely eat breakfast, I couldn害羞草研究所檛 help but tuck in to the so-tempting plates. Throughout both meals, I was impressed with how Chef Will seamlessly altered my food to meet dietary restrictions. I can害羞草研究所檛 believe anything could taste any better by adding back in the gluten and dairy!

害羞草研究所淢y favourite cuisine to cook is one that is dictated by a story with significance and meaning,害羞草研究所� Will says in summary. 害羞草研究所淪pecifically, I aim to create custom menus that transport our guests to another place害羞草研究所攕omewhere with meaning. I want to tell a story through the canvas of food. Creativity is the vessel through which we create significance in the meaning of our food.害羞草研究所�

Story courtesy of , a Black Press Media publication
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