- Words by Jane Mundy Photography by Don Denton
We know that a good cook can serve up memories from faraway places or offer a ticket back to childhood.
If you害羞草研究所檙e craving currywurst like you once scarfed down in Berlin, a pretzel at Oktoberfest, schnitzel at a Michelin-star restaurant in Munich or spaetzle that your mother lovingly made, go directly to , where chef Maxime Durand will transport you to Deutschland and satisfy your cravings.
But don害羞草研究所檛 just take my word for it. Patron Duane Bell had only just returned from Austria and Germany when I met him at Eva害羞草研究所檚.
害羞草研究所淕ermans and Austrians take their schnitzel seriously, so I was shocked at how good it was at an eatery in Victoria,害羞草研究所� said Duane. 害羞草研究所淭he currywurst was so good that it took me back to the street stall in Berlin, and all four of us ordered seconds害羞草研究所攁s well as every appetizer on the menu.害羞草研究所�
Like most Austrians, Duane takes schnitzel seriously. 害羞草研究所淵ou can tell there害羞草研究所檚 a lot of pride behind this food, and combined with great service we are thrilled to discover this eatery害羞草研究所攎y German and Austrian tastebuds zing.害羞草研究所�
Eva害羞草研究所檚 menu is simple and spare, but the flavours are complex and the portions are big. For instance, Maxime adds 10 spices, perfectly balanced, to his currywurst, and ginormous schnitzels barely fit on the dinner plate. The breading is crisp and greaseless and the meat so tender. You害羞草研究所檒l find classic choices such as schweineschnitzel (German pork schnitzell), roesti and raclette, but with modern twists. Fresh, local produce and the eggplant schnitzel害羞草研究所攑repared sous vide with a side of rutabaga and sauerkraut害羞草研究所攚ill bring a vegetarian back for more. I will return for a plate of braised red cabbage alone.
You won害羞草研究所檛 know from the menu that almost everything, from schnitzels and spaetzle to pretzels and pickles, are haus-made at Eva害羞草研究所檚 and there害羞草研究所檚 even a smoker in the kitchen to smoke ham hocks and bacon, thanks to chef Maxime and his sous-chef Emile pulling double shifts.
One afternoon, I witnessed the pretzel prep. The dough is fermented overnight and chilled. Once about four dozen are shaped, they are dipped in an alkaline solution to caramelize the dough and proofed for half an hour before baking.
害羞草研究所淲e try to serve them hot-out-of-the-oven just before dinner time,害羞草研究所� Maxime explained.
And getting back to the currywurst, it害羞草研究所檚 classic Berlin street food, served with dollops of curried ketchup and potato chips. North America害羞草研究所檚 equivalent is the steamed, smothered hot dog at the hockey game or street stall害羞草研究所攂ut it害羞草研究所檚 way better. Just for starters, Maxime害羞草研究所檚 ingredients don害羞草研究所檛 include preservatives.
Naturally, there害羞草研究所檚 a decent beer selection at Eva害羞草研究所檚 with lager and pilsner on tap to wash down your wurst. And if you害羞草研究所檙e not starved for a full meal but want a snack with that stein anytime after 4 pm, go for the big and chewy, soft and twisty pretzel with mustard butter. But be warned: it害羞草研究所檚 addictive.
Breakfast is an important meal in Germany. There害羞草研究所檚 a German saying: Iss dein Fr眉hst眉ck wie ein Kaiser (eat your breakfast like a king), which at Eva害羞草研究所檚 refers to brunch; it will soon open for lunch as well.
Some items on the dinner menu are featured with a twist, such as schnitzel hollandaise and cured trout Benny with a mouth-watering sauerkraut pancake害羞草研究所攈old the bread.
The space itself is like the menu: small and unpretentious with a low-key vibe, whimsical d茅cor with a nod to a ski chalet and just enough kitsch on the walls.
You害羞草研究所檝e got to hand it to anyone opening a restaurant during the pandemic. Added to the fray, German food sometimes gets a bad rap, often perceived as heavy and stodgy: boiled sausages and potatoes and cabbage covered in cream and served by round men wearing lederhosen in beer halls. Austrian cuisine fares better perception-wise: considered more spa-like and sophisticated.
But when Victoria害羞草研究所檚 Rathskeller Schnitzel House said auf wiedersehen after half a century, there wasn害羞草研究所檛 much else in the city serving schnitzels and steins, and people crave comfort food in stressful times.
Chef Maxime, who previously helmed the kitchen at the award-winning Agrius, saw an opportunity. However, he says, it was nerve-wracking opening in November 2021 because nobody knew if the pandemic would get worse.
害羞草研究所淎t the same time, people wanted to experience something new, although we aren害羞草研究所檛 re-inventing the wheel. Sure, I have doubts sometimes when I wake up, but after a few beers they fade away, and questioning yourself is part of the learning experience,害羞草研究所� he said, laughing. 害羞草研究所淎s well, restaurant restrictions were lifting, so we had a bit of momentum right off the bat害羞草研究所攊t was like a slow opening and now we are ready for a busy summer.害羞草研究所�
Maxime chose not to deliver or offer take-out because 害羞草研究所渟chnitzel doesn害羞草研究所檛 travel well.害羞草研究所� Comfort food is a source of hearty, warming pleasure year-round and that is something you害羞草研究所檒l find at Eva Schnitzelhaus.
Story courtesy of , a Black Press Media publication
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